Read this travelogue written by Anurodh Das and get detailed insights from the traveller during a day’s trip to Ratnagiri in Odisha.
A Journey to the “Hill of Jewels”
On the 5th of May, 2025, a Monday etched in my memory, my father and I set out to explore the historical tapestry of Odisha. Our destination: the revered ruins of the Ratnagiri Monastery, situated near the present-day town of Jajpur. For a young historian like myself, the prospect of witnessing a site that once served as a major Vishwavidyalaya, a university of immense significance comparable to Nalanda in its regional context between the 7th and 13th centuries CE, was incredibly exciting.
Ratnagiri: A Beacon of Buddhist Learning
The very name “Ratnagiri,” meaning “Hill of Jewels,” hinted at the intellectual and spiritual wealth that once flourished here. Founded in the 7th century CE under the patronage of the Gupta king Narasimha Gupta Baladitya, Ratnagiri rose to prominence as a crucial hub for Vajrayana and Tantric Buddhism. It’s humbling to consider that this very ground served as a pivotal centre of learning, so influential that Tibetan Buddhist texts credit it as the origin point from which Vajrayana Buddhism spread its teachings far beyond the Indian subcontinent.
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The Diamond Triangle of Odisha
Our journey to Ratnagiri also brought into focus its connection to a network of other significant educational centres in the region. Along with Lalitgiri and Udayagiri, two other Vishwavidyalayas of notable importance, Ratnagiri forms what is known as the “Diamond Triangle” of Odisha. These three sites, located within a mere 20-kilometre radius, collectively represent the intellectual vibrancy of ancient Odisha, with Ratnagiri standing as the most significant among them.
Echoes of a Glorious Past
Despite the passage of time and the decline that began in the 13th century CE due to historical upheavals, a profound sense of history permeated the air as we walked through the ruins. The remaining foundations of the monastic buildings sparked my imagination, allowing me to envision the bustling academic life that once thrived within these walls. To stand where countless scholars and students once congregated was a truly moving experience.
Architectural Marvels and Sculptural Grandeur
One of the most captivating features of Ratnagiri is the magnificent gateway of Monastery No. 1. Carved from green chloride stone, this entrance is a masterpiece of ancient Indian artistry, widely regarded as one of the most beautiful of its kind. Within the complex, we explored the central Stupa surrounded by smaller votive stupas, and the structural outlines of Monastery No. 1 and Monastery No. 2. The sheer scale of Monastery No. 1, with its spacious central courtyard, hinted at its former grandeur. Inside, the impressive 12-foot (3.7 m) high Buddha sculpture, flanked by Padmapani and Vajrapani, stood as a silent testament to the site’s spiritual significance. While Monastery No. 2 housed a smaller, seemingly later-added Buddha image, the contrasting use of brick for the structures and stone for doorways, pillars, and sculptures created a visually striking tableau.
Witnessing the Unearthing of History
Adding a unique dimension to our visit was the opportunity to witness an active excavation by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Although the site was quiet due to the Labour Day holiday, the exposed trenches hinted at the exciting work underway. It was clear that the remnants of another monastery building were gradually being revealed, suggesting that Ratnagiri may soon boast three visible monastic complexes instead of the current two.
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Treasures Unearthed and Waiting to be Discovered
Recent discoveries, including an impressive 1.4-meter-tall Buddha head and numerous miniature stupas, underscore the rich archaeological potential of Ratnagiri. Our visit to the Archaeological Museum further solidified this, showcasing a collection of Buddha statues, heads, and smaller sculptures unearthed from the site. As we explored the complex, we couldn’t help but notice the numerous unusual stones and objects partially buried across the landscape, hinting at the vast amount of history still lying beneath the surface, waiting to be brought to light.
A Historian’s Hope
Our day at Ratnagiri was more than just a visit to an ancient site; it was an immersive journey into a significant chapter of Odisha’s past. As a young historian, witnessing the remnants of such a vital centre of learning and the ongoing efforts to uncover its secrets filled me with a profound sense of wonder and anticipation for future discoveries. I sincerely hope that the continuing ASI excavation will unveil the many hidden treasures of Ratnagiri, further illuminating the brilliance of this “Hill of Jewels.”
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